LONDON, February 14, 2008 – Dame Viv is back in London! Showing
a collection that glories in the girls who turned King's Road into an endless
fashion show from one end of the seventies to the other. Glam poseurs, sexy
secretaries, and perverse punks—all present and correct!
Actually, for accuracy's sake, the above needs a little qualification. Vivienne
Westwood has never stopped living in London, though she's shown her main line
in Paris for almost a decade and has no plans to change that. The collection
she showed today was her second line, Red Label, and it was here by popular
demand from retailers. "I never really wanted to show a second line [on the
runway] because it's such a lot of work," she said. "But it's good because
it means I don’t have to let go all of the ideas I have so quickly. There’s
an awful lot of energy in London now, and I found it much easier to show than
it used to be. There's help; sponsorship; fantastic hair, makeup, production
people; and really top girls."
If Britain's national fashion treasure had any lingering reservations that
showing her commercial line might tarnish her reputation, the effect ended
up just the opposite. Fifteen years ago no one would have predicted such an
incendiary nutcase would ever survive in business, let alone live to swish
a wearable collection of in-demand Westwood-isms in the face of her gainsayers.
But that was what it was: a lineup of pinstripe tailoring, tartan kilts, knits,
and coats with rounded lapels stamped with the baggy-hemmed, asymmetric hallmarks
of the Westwood classic. The fact that it's all at an accessible price—even
the gorgeous versions of her draped-bosom evening dresses—is, for a democrat
like Viv, perhaps the biggest triumph. No wonder it looked like a victory parade
when she came out at the end of the show arm in arm with one of London's It
girls of the moment, Lily Donaldson.
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